Leaving the Dismal Swamp Canal, we approach Norfolk and are amazed how industrial and naval the riverfront is. We pass CVN 65, Enterprise (pix) and approach Norfolk from the Elizabeth River (pix). Our dockage today is at the Waterside Marina (pix) and the place is jumping. Free concert with many bands at dockside, sponsored by Corona for Cinco de Mayo. Dinner at Castaldi's (****);wine with Les & Michael on Ambrosia (pix) and early to bed. Will stay here at least one more day.

Monday, May 5, 2003    Cinco De Mayo

Shopping lay day today at Nordstrom's, etc.  Lunch at Sbarro's, dinner on board.

Tuesday, May 6, 2003

As we departed Norfolk, we had to follow Enterprise (pix), going to sea.  On our left we passed the Portsmouth Naval Hospital (pix), birthplace of our illustrious webmaster.  On to Smithfield, Va., home of the famous Smithfield Inn (pix) and Smithfield hams.  Quiz of the day: What is unique about Smithfield hams?  Stay tuned for the answer.  Dinner and sunset (pix) at Smithfield Station Inn and Marina (****).

Wednesday, May 7, 2003

Left Smithfield Station at 8 AM in patchy fog and were heading for Jamestown on the James River, but the current was pretty strong, so we opted for Hampton Public Docks instead and were there by noon. We toured the waterfront town and had lunch on the boat after which we went to the Virginia Air and Space Center (pix-Gerry with moon man) and also caught an IMAX movie on helicopters.  Did you know our boat is named after the Sea Knight helicopter Tom used to fly in the Navy? We also caught a concert in the local park (pix) with boat buddies from Maverick and Seagull and had dinner downtown at Good Fellas (***). A beautiful sunny day in Hampton and after dinner, port in the cockpit, watching sunset.  Answer to yesterday's quiz.... According to Virginia law, to be called Smithfield, ham must be dry cured within the city limits and until 1966, the hogs had to be local and peanut fed.  Wow.

Thursday, May 8, 2003

Headed up the Bay today, to anchor out in Back Creek, just below the York River. As we checked our cruise guide, we noticed a yacht club on the creek, Seaford Yacht Club, that was listed in our club guide as a reciprocal club. Upon arrival we were welcomed at the pier by Helmut Walter, who was kind enough to drive us to Yorktown (pix) and pick us up at Nick's Seafood Pavillion, an ornate institution (pix) that Gerry was familiar with from her Yorktown days with the Coast Guard. Back at the dock, club dock master, Ken Hespe, fellow Naval Aviator, checked us in and made us feel very welcome.  Thanks Helmut, Ken and the skipper of Top Brass Too, all a credit to the club.  After dinner on board, with crab au gratin from Nick's, we had a nice visit from Sybil and Bob Campbell, former Fernandinians, and Marsh Lakers.  Sybil and Gerry worked together at Re/Max also.

Friday, May 9, 2003

Delayed departure, heavy fog.  Short trip to York River Yacht Haven, where our returned freezer was waiting!  Working so far-YEAH!  Dinner at River's Inn at the marina (*****).  Crawdads departed as we arrived and met Joyce and Shaef on Ducky, a 36' Grand Banks Europa, again.

Saturday, May 10, 2003

Departed York River for Urbanna, VA, only to discover a raw water exhaust leak, apparently between the muffler and the exhaust pipe. Returned to York River Yacht Haven, home to a Mainship dealer and will await a mechanic on Monday to evaluate the situation.  Dinner on board.  Ducky still here and we are expecting our Canadian friends on L'Ancestre tomorrow.  Gerry's dinner last night at River's Inn was a Mothers Day gift from Jen.  Thanks, we love you lots.

Sunday, May 11, 2003    Mother's Day

Happy Mother's Day! Laundry, bike ride and rest today.  Dinner with Lise & J.J. at the Crab Shack at the marina (***) and nightcap on the boat with a couple of friendly ducks (pix).  Joined briefly by Shaef and Joyce of Ducky, no relations.

Monday, May 12, 2003

Day started with the arrival of Bucko, the mechanic, (pix) who redid the clamps on the exhaust hose, hopefully fixing our leak problem.  Next we called Enterprise car rental to do Colonial Williamsburg and Jamestown with J.J. and Lise.  After a frustrating morning with the Enterprise people, we finally got together and were offered a free rental for our troubles.  Thanks to Eric and the Enterprise people.  We toured Williamsburg (pix) and lunched at Seasons (****) and then on to Jamestown (pix). Dinner on L'Ancestre courtesy of Domino's delivery and Lise's great seasoned oil (*****), and a little too much vino.

Tuesday, May 13, 2003

Still at York River Yacht Haven.  Winds in excess of 20, gusting 30+ keeping us off the Bay for another day.  We did venture out today, but the weatherman underestimated the winds.  What's new, the worlds best job, you get paid even though you're wrong most of the time! The good news is that we've been here so long, we get a free day tomorrow if we stay another day.  Other good news, the exhaust water leak seems to be fixed for now, no leakage underway this AM  Dinner on L'Ancetre, with grilled filets by chef Tom.

Wednesday, May 14, 2003

Another day of frustration.  Beautiful day, winds died down and we departed early for the Bay only to discover another leak, this time a cracked hose on the fuel cooler pipe end.  Returned to York River Yacht Haven AGAIN, ordered new hose from Cummins, expected tomorrow and maybe off again for good. Let's hope so.  GOOD NEWS! Gerry's daughter Jen got engaged last night to her long time friend Kurt, we are very excited and happy for them!! Dinner at River's Inn again (*****1/2).  Met fellow loopers, Al and Patricia on Al-a-Patricia, a 37' President.  They 're from Toronto and have been doing the loop in segments over 4 years.

Thursday, May 15, 2003

Off again.  Replaced hose which was overnighted from Cummins, 2 months past warrantee (naturally).  On to Windmill  Point Resort (pix).  Ideal location on the edge of the Bay and end of Rappahannock River.  Marina quiet and in need of some updating, but with beachfront (pix) and a fabulous restaurant (*****) in which we were the only diners.  Met Jim and Deb Rollins friends the Teals on Three Quarter Time, home ported here. (Pos:37-36.9N;76-17.4W)

Friday, May 16, 2003

Made our way across the Bay today, passed the 1000 mile point of our journey.  To Onancock Wharf, VA, home to the famous Liars Bench (pix), normally manned by some of the town elders.  A pretty, quaint town with many beautiful older homes. Dinner at Armando's (****). (Pos: N37-42.7;W075-45.3)

Saturday, May 17, 2003

Left Onancock with forecast 2-3 foot seas on the nose.  Actually 4-5 and we took a good beating for 2 hrs, but arrived safely at Crisfield, MD, crab capitol of the region.  COLD here, 50's and blustery, Brrrr! Dinner at Captains Galley (****), great crab cakes and dessert. (Pos: N 37-58.7;W075-51.5)

Sunday, May 18, 2003

Lay day.  Ferry to Tangier Island (pix), population 700, most whom speak with an Elizabethan accent.  No industry except tourism and crabbing.  Crabbers live and process crabs in crab shacks on the water (pix).  Elevation 4 feet ,so above ground cemeteries (pix).  Lunch at Fisherman's Corner (****), dinner in Crisfield at Waterman's Inn (****). Hopefully, we're all crabbed out!!

Received e-mail from N.Y. Canal Corp., the annual canal trek has been canceled this year due to "lack of interest".  Hard to believe, as they had over 40 boats last year, including our friends, the Rollins (the Teals say hello!) on No Egrets. I guess everyone went last year. It will still be fun doing it on our own and I'm sure we'll have company. Good news is we get a full refund and get to keep our lock pass and guidebook for free.  Wow!

Monday, May 19, 2003

Left Crisfield (pix), the crab capital of the "world", sorry for Saturday's understatement. Nice weather finally, on to Solomon's, MD., and past the famous cliffs (pix). Anchored in Back Creek and found old friends from Barefoot Landing, Gene and Kathy, already there on a beautiful Duffy 35, Sutton Creek (pix). Cocktail hour with them on Sea Knight and dinner on board (****). (Pos: N 38-27.2; W 76-27.6)

Tuesday, May 20, 2003

Calm cold night on the anchor in Solomon's, MD, and woke up to Swan Lake (pix). Left at 7:45 AM for trip across the Chesapeake Bay to the Eastern Shore. A beautiful day on the water (like glass) to Oxford, MD by noon. Walked down the streets of this quiet and, so far, the most beautiful town historically.  Down Morris Street (pix) to grocery shopping and a few stores.  Cocktail hour on the boat with old sailboat acquaintances from Elizabeth City, NC, David and Ruth from Vermont, and dinner at the wonderful Latitude 38 bar (the owner picked us up at the Marina).  Crab cakes are great (****1/2).  Ambiance also great, and obviously a local favorite as it was packed on a Tuesday night. (Pos: N 38-41.5; W 76-10.2)

Wednesday, May 21, 2003

Left Oxford on another bleak day.  Passed the Sultanna (pix) on the way to St. Michaels, Md. where it rained all day.  Walked the town in the early PM before the rain got heavy, which it did, trapping us on the boat for most of the PM.  Lovely town, nice blend of shops and older homes.  Dinner at Pascal's Tavern (***) at the Harbour Inn & Marina where we are staying.  Facility in state of dock refinishing and only charged us $1.00/ft., unusual for St. Michael's.  Fancy place with only lukewarm water in shower and restrooms, very disappointing, but I guess the price was right.  Would like to spend more time here, but the weather is supposed to be cruddy for the next few days, so we'll push on. (Pos: N 38-47.1; W 76-13.2)

Thursday, May 22, 2003

On to Kent Narrows and the Piney Narrows Yacht Haven, home of friends Denny and Carol Gustafson (pix) who live aboard Temptress, a 43' Vista Motoryacht.  They are planning to do the Great Loop next year, so Denny is making Carol work to pay for the trip.  Lunch and tour with Denny at Harris' Crab House (***1/2); great cream crab soup.  Dinner on board Temptress, Gerry's famous Cincinnati chili (****) and Denny's great garlic bread. ( Pos: N 37-58.4; W 76-15.0)

Friday, May 23, 2003

Arrived Annapolis Harbor (pix) on another dreary Bay day.  Naval Academy graduation today with Rumsfeld and lots of security.  Toured Ego Alley a public dock that juts right into downtown (pix).  On to Back Creek past L'Ancetre and Sutton Creek, to guest dock at Chuck and Pattie Wickers condo docks.  Pattie and Gerry grew up on the same street in Rutherford, N.J. (that's another story).  The Wickers are fellow Mainshippers and are very gracious hosts.  Went to lunch with them at Davis' Pub , a local hangout with excellent food and neighborhood ambiance (*****), followed by a tour of Annapolis and the Naval Academy.  Supper and movie at the Cinema Grill, a combo theatre and bar/grill (**1/2). (Pos: N 38-57.7; W 76-29.1)

Saturday, May 24, 2003

Lay day on Back Creek, Annapolis.  Water taxi with JJ & Lise from L'Ancetre to downtown sightseeing, shopping and lunch at Phillips (***1/2).  Grey day starting to clear in late PM, dinner on board, Cincinnati chili again (****).

Sunday, May 25, 2003

Another rainy lay day on the Chesapeake. Family day with Tom's nephew Billy and wife Caroline, kids Erica and Jonathon (pix).  They arrived for a boat trip around Annapolis, but it was pouring (pix) so we went to lunch at an Italian restaurant in Eastport (****) and then came back to the boat.  Erica was very insistent about heading out to sea, and so we did with her at the helm (pix) and then Jonathon at the helm (pix). We had a great visit and happy hour on the boat, and the rain is back.  Good to see family.

Monday, May 26, 2003    Memorial Day

Left Annapolis and our great hosts, Chuck (pix) and Pattie Wickers.  Finer hosts could not be found!  Thanks guys, see you in the Fall!  Another dreary start to the day and a very choppy Bay.  Decided on a short trip to Rock Hall.  Gerry met the "Oysterman" (pix) and miraculously the weather cleared up to be a beautiful PM, about time. Celebrated the change in weather with a great dinner at the Swan Point Inn (*****) and the Town trolley tour. (Pos: N 39-08.0; w 76-14.6)

Tuesday, May 27, 2003

On to Baltimore, passing Fort McHenry (pix) to Inner Harbor and a comedy, juggling act (pix). Toured the Aquarium and walked Fells Point District, with a good dinner at Ze Mean Bean Cafe (****).  Thanks to Caroline Clare for the aquarium passes. (Pos: N 39-16.8; W 76-34.9)

Wednesday, May 28, 2003

Lay day.  Start very dreary, as usual, but cleared in PM.  Water Taxi to Harbor; toured shops, etc.; observation deck of the trade center with panoramic views of Baltimore; and walking tour of Little Italy with great dinner at LaScala (*****1/2).

Thursday, May 29, 2003

A fairly nice day, for a change.  On to Still Pond Creek, a lovely anchorage just below the Sassafras River.  Dinghy ride and lunch and dinner on board. Very relaxing day! ( Pos: N 39-19.9; W 76-07.5 )

Friday, May 30, 2003

Left Still Pond Creek from the anchorage on a beautiful SUNNY morning, following one of those orange Coast Guard boats out of the creek out to the Chesapeake and continued up the East shore to the Sassafras River which was absolutely beautiful in the morning hours.  Kent County farms on the southern shore and lots of beautiful cliffs and homes into Georgetown Yacht Basin.  Maybe it was just the sunny day (finally-almost into the 80's), but we just loved the marina.  Took the bikes into town along a country road and wheat fields (pix) and back to the basin for showers (great) and the Two Toot water taxi to dinner at the Granary. (*****) (Pos: N 39-21.7; W 75-53.1)

Saturday, May 31, 2003

On to Chesapeake City Inn Marina at the western end of the C&D Canal, connecting the Bay with the Delaware River. Another bleak day with dire forecast for this evening, and high winds tomorrow which will prevent the trip down the Delaware to Cape May, NJ.  This Marina is Party Time USA, with loud band just off the dock and loud music from boats on the dock.  Waiting for the predicted bad weather, hopefully driving partiers away; it's 8:30 PM and no luck yet.  The band is scheduled 'till 1:30 A.M.  GOOD GRIEF!

Sorry Aaron: (Pos: N 39-31.6; W 75-48.6). The wood fired Pizza at the Inn was exceptionally good(****)

Sunday, June 1, 2003

Lay day.  Rain, high winds AM; Clearing and diminishing PM.  Off to Cape May tomorrow.  Delightful cocktail hour on Sea Knight with Dennis and Peggy from Gratitude, a 40' Caliber sail and Capts Gary and Gail on Evolution, a 36' Krogen Manatee. We were anchored with Evolution last March on the Manatee River (not named for the boat) as they were preparing to do the Tenn-Tom waterways, a trip I want to do next year. (Aaron-same Pos. as yesterday)

Monday, June 2, 2003

Imagine, 3 states (MD, DE, and NJ) and a totally sunny day.  Zoomed down Delaware Bay at 12 knots, on to lovely Cape May, NJ (pixs). Walking tour of town and the beach, dinner at Freda's Cafe (*****) and a 2 mile walk back to the boat. (Pos. N 38-57.1; W 74-54.4)